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Dear Friends of Safarat, I apologize for not sending a more detailed update – I’ve been working on a longer article about the new restrictions on women in Afghanistan and some more detailed itineraries for Spring 2025 which should be reaching your inbox in the next couple of weeks. The political and security situation in the country this Autumn has been fairly good – some of the predictions I made have been realized, but tourist numbers were considerably lower than in May as a result of the attack in Bamiyan. We felt this was a positive, with local officials far more relaxed with fewer foreign visitors to manage. Our groups this Autumn have been able to reliably stay again in some of our homestays which proved once again to be a real highlight of our journeys. There are still strange things going on particularly in Badakhshan and eastern provinces of the country which means for 2025 we are still not looking to expand our trips into the mountains of the north or into Nuristan. As usual we recommend strongly subscribing to the Afghan Digest to get some idea of what’s going on at a provincial level and away from the narrow focus of the international press. With the frantic peak Autumn season now coming to an end – I’d like to encourage you to think about visiting Afghanistan this winter. For me there is nothing more exciting than stepping off a plane early in the morning at Kabul International airport on a crisp winter morning. The Hindu Kush mountains dusted with snow frame the city, and you’re immediately hit by the smell of wood smoke in the air. The atmosphere immediately feels different and in an increasingly homogenous, boring world you know that you’ve arrived somewhere deeply special. The city itself in winter feels darker and more intriguing. Afghan men wrapped in traditional woollen pattus huddle round braziers at taxi stands and herders block the street as they retreat from their high pastures through the city to market. An early morning stroll on the famous “Wall Walk” also can’t be beaten – you’ll probably be guided by Khalid on the walk who has been a friend of mine since 2012. Bring good walking boots as you’ll probably find yourself bashing a path through the snow. Bamiyan transforms in the winter into a white wonderland. A visit to the buddhas in the snow is even more magical than usual and best of all you’ll find that you’re probably the only visitor. There isn’t a better time to visit Kandahar and the south – November is peak pomegranate season in Arghandab and our friends in the valley are waiting to welcome you. If you’d like to consider a winter trip to Afghanistan this winter – we are able to offer private tours with Qudratullah Noory for as little as $300USD per night. Please get in touch now so we can issue you your visa invitation – if your stuck for ideas about what to do then our Afghan Long Weekender trip is a great starting place. In other news i’m also looking for a partner in the UK who might be interested in designing some kelims and other textiles in collaboration with Ismail who is our coordinator in Mazar-E-Sharif. If you know any interior designers or in fact anyone else who might be interested then please pass on this email. Always onwards, Joe Sheffer +44 7458 611911
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